Downwind Run For The Barn!

Caprice - Blog update: Sept 20

The Richmond Yacht Club charter in the San Juans was just great…seeing friends that we have missed for months, sunny days and enough wind to sail…couldn’t ask for more. We thoroughly enjoyed our guests for the week, Dan and Gerrie Peterson and Susan Hubbard. They proved to be perfect companions on this relaxing portion of our journey. We loved the ice cream, nice walks and shopping in Roche. Friday Harbor was a lot nicer than I remember, probably because it is not the middle of the summer tourist season. Provisioning in Friday Harbor is very easy because the shops are so close. We daudled around and the time quickly flew by and before we knew it, it was time to go back to Anacortes to drop our friends off and pick up our next guests from Brickyard Cove, Roy and Dione Henrickson. While in Anacortes, we saw the new Oracle trimaran…what a machine! We hope that the attorneys and judges settle so that she can compete in the America‘s Cup.

After stopping briefly at Roche Harbor again for one last ice cream, we shoved off for the last leg of our trip home. We fueled up at Port Angeles, then skirted past Neah Bay and decided to keep going because the seas and winds were so favorable. Rounding Cape Flattery was so smooth, a wonderful treat compared to our past experiences. With light winds, we headed south to Gray’s Harbor - an overnighter motoring all the way.

Westport, in Gray’s Harbor, is a charming fishing town, and summer destination for tourists. Located at the northern tip of the Cranberry Coast, Westport is proud of its 18 miles of clean sandy beaches, quiet coves, picturesque marinas and stunning rivers. The Cranberry Coast is named for its thousands of acres of cranberry bogs, stretching down to South Bend. More than 230 cranberry farms dot the Pacific Coast from British Columbia to Oregon, but more than 30 percent of those are along the shores of the Cranberry Coast alone. At this time of year, people are catching salmon right in the harbor. The berthing fees at Westport Marina were lower than we have seen anywhere in years…$13, including electricity! After eating a ton of fish during the past ten months, the prime rib dinner at the local café was a nice a treat.

So now we are headed for Newport, Oregon - another overnighter. We will meet our friends from Oregon again (remember Bill and Jill Case, who visited us in New Zealand?), then head off to Brookings, Eureka, Noyo, Bodega Bay, then the Golden Gate. Our ETA is Saturday, September 27, or Sunday, September 28. This will be our last update for the blog until we get home. Then we will write a synopsis for the final blog, culminating over 12,000 miles in 10 months. This will include our last week at sea and the good (mostly), bad and ugly (yes, there were a few) experiences, equipment comments and the boat pros and cons, culminating over 12,000 miles in 10 months.

Caprice needs a bit of TLC, so she will keep us busy for a while.

Cheers,
Dan & Carol

Captain's Log Stardate September 7, 2008

I am getting soooo lax at updating this blog. I guess I have been having too much fun. Since we arrived in Alaska, we have been cruising down the inner passage to Anacortes. Some of the most memorable events have been :
- Fishing: In Alaska and B.C., we caught salmon and crab, until Carol said, "No more fish. There isn't any room in the fridge or freezers".
- Mountains: Awesome! Still lots of snow on the peaks and the trees grow right down to the water. Everything is green.
-Rain: That's why everything is green. Our rain gage registered at least 2 inches almost every day for three weeks! It is so nice to now be soaking up the sun in the San Juan Islands.
-Spinnaker runs: Most memorable, down Peril Straights and Johnstone Straights and down the Swinomish Channel from Anacortes to La Conner.
Numerous people have taken pictures, a couple of boats radioed us to say that we were really brightening the day. One man called down from his beautiful home perched on large rocks above the Swinomish Channel to tell us that our spinnaker was the first one they had seen in five years! The spinnaker is great fun to fly from a catamaran since it does not need a spinnaker pole. We typically can do ½ the wind speed.
-Porpoises: Their visits to the bows of Caprice are so exciting. They play like happy children and make our day.
-Whales: We saw whales almost every day. One of the most exciting sights was when a mother whale surfaced, rolled over on her back so that the baby whale could lay on top of her stomach to feed, then after about 10 minutes, she gently rolled over and dived.
-Customs officers: In British Columbia, they were professional but friendly. In the US, they were not.
-Food: Same as always, great!
-Quiet anchorages: Every night we had a separate experience. The quite anchorages are numerous, very scenic and almost sacred. The bald eagles are numerous and wonderful to watch.
-Cool weather: Our forced air heater is worth its weight in gold. We have used it almost every morning since we arrived in Alaska..
-Electronic charts and navigation: Invaluable. We had some back up paper ones , just in case, but using the Raymarine/Navionics charts relieve a lot of worry. We had to wait 3 days in Prince Rupert for the British Columbia chip, but the Raymarine system worked flawlessly, except for the constant alarm for the AIS. I understand that the software update will correct this irritant.
We reluctantly said Goodbye to our friends, Ernie and Lynne Landes at Anacortes. The next day, we met the Richmond Yacht Club Cruisers, and greeted our new crew members Dan & Gerrie Peterson and Sue Hubbard.
This crew will be with us for ten days and then we will welcome Roy and Dione Henrickson for the last leg of our journey down the West coast to home.
We have just gone through Deception Pass on our way to Port Ludlow.
Tomorrow we go to Port Townsend before heading North to the San Juans.
We are getting anxious to get home, but in the interim, life couldn't be better.
Cheers,
Caprice and Crew

Caprice travels: Polynesia to Alaska

Majestic snow capped mountains, glaciers, cascading waterfalls, extreme tides, massive currents, whales galore, bald eagles, salmon, halibut, crab, shore birds, trees, trees and more trees. YES, we’ve arrived in Alaska! This is my idea of paradise!
What a perfect crossing, 18 days almost to the minute, from Hanalei Bay, Kauai to Sitka. Everything was relatively uneventful…catching Mahi Mahi and tuna, days of great sailing in 20 to 28 knot winds and motoring for the last three. Our only problem, which could have been a big one, was loss of communications. The radio had been giving us problems since day one, probably because of a poor ground. Around the half way point, we no longer had contact with “Last Mango”, a 38 foot monohull that left Kauai for Seattle, at the same time we did. (“Last Mango” arrived in Seattle four days after we arrived in Sitka). A few days after losing contact with Last Mango, we were unable to contact the Great Northern Boaters‘ Network. Around the same time, we lost our SailMail privilege due to “excessive use”. Sailmail doesn’t allow one to delete individual messages before they are downloaded. Therefore lengthy messages, particularly weather charts, take a long time. Other than EPIRB, this was our last life line. Obviously we have much to learn about this system. After arriving at Sitka, we got a call from the Coast Guard asking about our location. The network controllers were wondering where we were since we couldn’t check in. Another example of the dedicated volunteer service that the HAM network provides.
Since our last message, a lot of water has passed between our hulls.
After a lovely stay in Bora Bora, which included several visits to Bloody Mary’s and the pearl farms, we departed for Rangiroa atoll (an island surrounded by a reef). Rangiroa is part of the Tuamotos and is often used as a departure point for Hawaii.
While at Rangiroa, we celebrated our 45th wedding anniversary. Crewmen Tom and Ted wanted to take us to dinner at the lovely Kia Ora Resort . They tried to make reservations three nights in a row. Since the dining room was only half full each night, I can only surmise that the snooty maitre’ d didn’t like hairy faced sailors. So, we went to a very small, but excellent, outdoor restaurant called “Kia Kia” which could have not have been better!
We did a little provisioning (very challenging), refueling and made a last tour of a pearl farm. The Rangiroa pearl farm was by far the most interesting, an up close look at how the pearls are cultured. It is quite a long process (3-6 years), involving many steps in the process. Until we visited this farm, we didn’t know anything about black pearls so it was quite an education.
While we were anchored the “Maltese Falcon” glided in and anchored close by. She is such an amazing sight. It is a good thing I no longer use a film camera as I could not get enough of her different angles and the play of the sun on her gleaming hull, spars and rigging. The Maltese Falcon, owned by Tom Perkins, was also at dock in Bora Bora while we were there. New sailing acquaintances happened to have Perkin’s book “Mine is Bigger” with them and lucked out on getting the captain’s autograph and a tour of the magnificent craft.
We departed Rangirora and headed for Hawaii. It took us 7 days and 4 hours to sail the 900 miles to the equator. On June 25th, sailing with spinnaker alone, Caprice and crew crossed the line into the Northern Hemisphere, going from winter to summer. Tom and Ted had a special ceremony changing our status from tadpoles to shellbacks. Both Tom and Ted are shellbacks having crossed the equator previously. Tom did his in a submarine and Ted did his on a sailboat.
After going through the “initiation” we then celebrated the event with a fine feast of French pate’s, New Zealand honey and pickled asparagus, American roasted cashews, Canadian sardines, French brie, Tahitian baguettes and French wine. We made sure that Neptune got his share,too. In addition to sharing the good stuff we donated our bread maker which failed to recuperate from the damage it received during its flight to Aukland. Hopefully, Neptune can find a use for it, maybe a vase for kelp and seaweed. We also put a message in a bottle of wine (empty) with our names and e-mail addresses and threw it overboard. Where will it make landfall?
On the third day after crossing the equator, we entered the dreaded Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) which is the area separating the Southeast trade winds in the Southern Hemisphere from the Northeast trade winds of the Northern Hemisphere. This zone can have weather ranging from dead calm (doldrums) to severe squalls and thunderstorms. The distance across can be as much as 600 miles to as little than 60. In our case we had no wind and only two small squalls during the 39 hours it took us to motor through 120 miles of the Zone.
During our time in the doldrums Dan did manage to land a funny looking squid and a long skinny barracuda in a sea of garbage that probably had been recently dumped by a passing ship. Both the fish were released back in the dump. We did manage to land a tuna later in much cleaner waters. This beauty made six meals!
Our cruise from the Tuamotos was one for the books. We headed straight North from Rangiroa to the equator, and then straight for Hawaii. We flew the spinnaker for three days straight and made the 2240 mile crossing in less than 18 days, all on a starboard tack. Arriving at daybreak at Ko Olina and were welcomed by Bob & Renee Miller and Gordon & Patricia Wood, all living aboard in the marina.
During the week at Ko Olina, Tom and Ted helped with maintenance items and then jumped ship to spend much needed time with their wives. Having Tom and Ted with us for three months was a pleasure. We thank them and their wives Merrie and Pat, for their tremendous support.
Also, during the Hawaii week I got my COSTCO fix. Being a self proclaimed COSTCO junkie, you can imagine how frustrating some of the provisioning has been during this voyage. In Hawaii, I thought I was in heaven as I walked through COSTCO’s pearly gates. I managed to leave an entire “boat buck” behind. It was lovely having fresh fruit and vegetables (especially California artichokes), stocking the freezer with steak, ribs, shrimp, etc., loading up with desserts, cheeses, wines and a few spirits.
From Oahu, we sailed to Hanalei Bay, Kauai. This location lives up to its reputation of being one of the most beautiful places in the world. We had a surprise shortly after leaving Kauai, when a huge military plane buzzed us and then contacted us on channel 16 to ask about our intentions. After giving them our course, they advised us that we were close to a military exercise (international war game) and to hold our course so that we wouldn’t become part of the game.
 
 
 
 
Our new crew member is Dan’s brother, Doug. Doug started his sailing “career” in the early ’80’s right in our backyard at Brickyard Cove. He sailed an El Toro from our dock to the marina where he promptly turned it over, losing his glasses and soaking everything in his wallet. Doug didn’t set foot on another sailboat until 1990 when he “helped” deliver a 40’ monohull from Spain to St. Thomas. The outcome of this sail was much better as he purchased his own boat in 1992. Doug was living in Spain at this time and purchased a 40’ Spanish built Northwind center cockpit sloop named “Red Hunter”. He and Sheila spent the next two years living aboard sailing the Balearic Islands. While visiting us at Christmastime 1993, Doug asked if we would like to crew for him during the 1994 ARC Rally. Dan said “you bet” and I said “Yikes, I’ve never been out of sight of land before”. Of course, this really wasn’t true as we had sailed the California coast many times in fog so thick that we could barely see the bow. I finally told Dan that I would go too…I didn’t want him to die alone!
The ARC Rally starts at the Grand Canary Island and crosses to St. Lucia. Dan and I joined Doug and Sheila three weeks prior to the start to ready “Red Hunter” . There was much that needed to be done which was challenging, as the local chandlery was not exactly a West Marine. The passage was relatively uneventful except for a few good squalls and getting the spinnaker stuck under the boat. It took us 21 days since Doug and Dan would not turn on the engine during ultra light winds. After arriving in St. Lucia, we spent another three weeks fixing things on the “Red Hunter”, reprovisioning and doing some leisurely cruising.
For the next ten years, Doug and Sheila spent six months of the year living on the boat sailing the Caribbean Islands and the remainder of the year at their home in England. Doug has come a long way since his El Toro experience and is a knowledgeable, fun crew member.
From the time we left Sydney, Australia, we have sailed over 10,000 miles, visited 9 islands in 3 countries, gained a day sailing across the international date line, went from the bottom half of the world to the top and from winter to summer when we crossed the equator, saw fabulous places, met many interesting people, had great food and wine both on the boat and on shore. We experienced some of our best days of sailing ever, especially downwind with spinnaker only. Caprice did a great job in carrying us throughout this tropical paradise.
The Caprice crew changed again in Ketchikan. Doug left and headed back to England. Ernie and Lynne Landes, long time friends living in Port Ludlow, WA, joined us for the three plus weeks it will take to cruise to Anacortes.
Caprice at Warm Springs, Alaska
 
We are now settled at the Prince Rupert Yacht Club awaiting the passing of a storm. We are thoroughly enjoying the magnificent scenery of the Alaskan peninsula. It is everything we had wished for. We still have quite a distance to travel, but we decided to wait here for a Navionics chart “chip” that is being flown in from Campbell River. British Columbia charts are not part of the Western Coast charts that are on our Raymarine chart plotter and we have become so spoiled with the detail and GPS location overlay that we feel uncomfortable with the “paper charts”.
Next, heading south to San Francisco Bay.
 
Carol 8/19/08

Ted's Log Stardate July 6th, 2008

MESSAGE 15 6 JULY KO OLINA MARINA, HAWAII


ALOHA ALL


WE MADE IT!! AT 0625 HOURS, 6 JULY WE TIED UP AT THE GAS DOCK IN THE KO OLINA MARINA WHICH IS LOCATED ON THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF OAHU ABOUT 25 MILES WEST OF HONOLULU. IT TOOK US 17 DAYS 20 HOURS AND 25 MINUTES TO SAIL THE APPROXIMATELY 2250 MILES FROM RANGIROA TO HERE, AN AVERAGE OF 125 MILES A DAY MADE GOOD. WE SAILED THE WHOLE WAY ENTIRELY ON A STARBOARD TACK.


FROM THE TIME WE LEFT AUCKLAND ON APRIL 19th, WE SAILED APPROXIMATELY 5500 MILES, VISITED 9 ISLANDS IN 3 COUNTRIES, GAINED A DAY SAILING AROSS THE INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE, WENT FROM THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE WORLD TO THE TOP AND FROM WINTER TO SUMMER WHEN WE CROSSED THE EQUATOR, SAW SOME FABULOUS PLACES, MET MANY INTERESTING PEOPLE, HAD MANY OUTSTANDING DAYS OF SAILING AND MANY GREAT MEALS BOTH ON AND OFF THE BOAT. I EXPERIENCED SOME OF MY BEST DAYS OF SAILING EVER ESPECIALLY DOWNWIND WITH SPINNAKER ONLY. CAPRICE DID A GREAT JOB IN CARRYING US THROUGHOUT THIS TOPICAL PARADISE.


ALL BOAT OWNERS KNOW THAT THINGS BREAK ON BOATS AND THIS IS PARTICULARLY TRUE ON LONG VOYAGES. ALTHOUGH CAPRICE DID NOT HAVE ANY MAJOR THINGS GO WRONG, WE DID HAVE SOME FAILURES, MANY OF WHICH WERE FIXED. THESE INCLUDED: (1) STEERING CABLE (FIXED), (2) WATERMAKER (FIXED), (3) BLOCKS (REPLACED), (4) CHAFED LINES (REPLACED OR REPOSITIONED), (5) PORT HEAD MACERATOR (T0 BE REPLACED IN HAWAII), (6) NAV STATION SEAT (TO BE FIXED IN HAWAI), (7) BIMINI BRACKET (FIXED), (8)THE SAIL DRIVE MEMBRANE (TO BE REPLACED DURING THE NEXT HAULOUT) AND (9) THE TRACK SLIDE FOR THE OUTHAUL (TO BE REPLACED IN HAWAII). ALL IN ALL THIS IS A VERY GOOD RECORD. CAPRICE SHOULD BE PROUD.


ONE OF THE THINGS I WANTED TO DO DURING THIS TRIP WAS TO COMPARE PASSAGE MAKING ON MONOHULLS TO MAKING THEM IN MULTIHULLS. THIS IS MY ANALYSIS.


THE ADVANTAGES OF MULTIHULLS ARE: THEY GO FAST, PARTICULARY IN RELATIVELY LIGHT WINDS ( WE WOULD DO 7-8 KNOTS IN LESS THEN 15 KNOTS OF WIND), THEY DON’T HEAL, ARE EXTREMELY COMFORTABLE GOING DOWNWIND AND IN SMOOTH SEAS, FOR THE SAME LENGTH OF A MONOHULL, THEY HAVE ABOUT 50 PERCENT MORE ROOM, MOST OF THE NEW CATS HAVE TWO ENGINES, AND HAVE A SHALLOWER DRAFT ALLOWING CLOSER-TO-SHORE ANCHORING.


THE MINUSES INCUDE: THEY DON’T POINT INTO THE WIND A WELL AS MOST MONOHULLS, THEY HAVE A MORE LEEWAY (AS MUCH AS 25 DEGREES FOR CAPRICE), THERE ARE LESS SPACES IN MARINAS TO BERTH MULTIHULLS, CATS TEND TO “HOBBY HORSE” AND ROLL SIDE TO SIDE, SOME TIMES BOTH AT THE SAME TIME, IN ROUGH SEAS MOST CATS EXPERIENCE “BOMBS” WHICH ARE WAVES SMACKING THE BOTTOM OF THE BRIDGE WITH A LOUD BOOM AND STRONG SHOCK WAVES, AND IN ROUGH AND CONFUSED SEAS, WAVES HITTING THE HULLS IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS AND DIFFERENT MAGNITUDES CAUSE THE BOAT TO MAKE SUDDEN AND ROUGH TWISTS AND TURNS WHICH ARE EXTREMELY UNCOMFORTABLE.


MONOHULL ADVANTAGES ARE: LESS LEEWAY, WILL CUT TROUGH WAVES INSTEAD OF BOUNCING OVER THEM, POINT BETTER TO THE WIND, RIDE A LITTLE BETTER IN CONFUSED SEAS, AND EASIER TO FIND MARINA SLIPS.


MINUSES INCLUDE: THEY HEAL WHICH ON LONG VOYAGES IS VERY UNCOMFORTABLE, THEY ARE SLOWER, HAVE DEEPER DRAFTS, LESS ROOM AND ONLY ONE ENGINE.


THERE ARE PROBABLY MORE ADVANTAGES AND DISAVANTAGES THAT CAN BE MADE, BUT THESE ARE THE ONES THAT CONCERNED ME.


SO THE QUESTION IS WHICH DO I PREFER. IF I WAS GOING TO BUY A BOAT FOR EXTENSIVE CRUSING, I WOULD VERY STRONGLY CONSISDER A MULTIHULL. THEY GO FAST, MORE ROOM AND OVERALL MORE COMFORTABLE RIDE ON LONG PASSAGES, HOWEVER FOR DAY SAILING IN THE BAY I WOULD STICK WITH MONOHULLS. I STILL LIKE SAILING FOR SHORT PERIODS HEALED OVER WITH A RAIL IN THE WATER AND SPRAY IN MY FACE. THAT’S WHAT I GREW UP WITH.


WELL THIS IT FOR ME. DAN AND CAROL WILL BE TAKING CAPRICE TO ALSAKA WITH DAN’S BROTHER DOUG AS CREW, THEN DOWN THROUGH SOUTHEAST ALASKA TO THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS AND FINALLY DOWN THE WEST COAST TO SAN FRANSICO BAY AND HOME.


AS FOR ME, PAT WILL BE JOINING ME IN A FEW DAYS AND WE WILL ENJOY HAWAII FOR A FEW WEEKS BEFORE RETURNING TO REALITY.


I REALLY WANT TO THANK DAN AND CAROL FOR INCLUDING ME IN THIS GREAT ADVENTURE. IT WAS GREAT. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, BOTH SO VERY MUCH. MEMORIES TO LAST A LIFE TIME.


SO, THIS IS THE END MY FRIENDS


A BIG ALOHA


TED

Ted's Log Stardate July 2, 2008

MESSAGE 14 2 JULY LATITUDE: 14 DEGREES NORTH LONGITUDE: 153
DEGREES WEST

DAY 15

HOWDY ALL

TWO THINGS IN THE LAST MESSAGE THAT I FAILED TO MENTION WHEN DISCUSSING THE EQUATOR CROSSING. FIRST--IN ADDITION TO GIVING NEPTUNE FOOD (SPAM) AND DRINK (WINE), CAROL DONATED HER BREAD-MAKER WHICH FAILED TO RECUPERATE FROM THE DAMAGE THAT IT RECEIVED DURING IT'S FLIGHT TO AUKLAND. HOPEFULLY NEPTUNE CAN FIX IT AND PUT IT TO GOOD USE.
SECOND--WE PUT A MESSAGE IN A WINE BOTTLE (EMPTY) WITH OUR NAMES AND EMAIL ADDRESSES IN IT AND TOSSED IT OVERBOARD.

AFTER CROSSING THE EQUATOR AND TURNING NORTHWEST TOWARD HAWAII, UNDER THE SPINNAKER ALONE, IN 10 TO 15 KNOTS OF WIND OVER THE STERN AND FOLLOWING SEAS, I EXPERIENCED THE BEST TWO DAYS OF SAILING EVER. IN 48 HOURS WE LOGGED OVER 300 MILES. SMOOTH AND FAST!!

HOWEVER ON THE THIRD DAY WE ENTERED THE DREADED INTER TROPICAL CONVERGENCE ZONE (ITCZ) WHICH IS THE AREA SEPARATING THE SOUTHEAST TRADE WINDS IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE FROM THE NORTHEAST TRADES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE. THIS ZONE CAN HAVE WEATHER RANGING FROM DEAD CALM (DOLDRUMS) TO SEVERE SQUALLS AND THUNDERSTORMS. ITS DISTANCE ACROSS CAN BE AS MUCH AS 600 MILES TO LESS THAN 60. IN OUR CASE WE HAD NO WIND AND ONLY TWO SMALL SQUALLS DURING THE 39 HOURS IT TOOK US TO MOTOR THROUGH 120 MILES OF THE ZONE.

DURING OUR TIME IN THE DOLDRUMS DAN DID MANAGE TO LAND A FUNNY LOOKING SQUID AND A LONG SKINNY BARRACUDA IN A SEA OF GARBAGE THAT PROBABLY HAD BEEN RECENTLY DUMPED BY A PASSING SHIP. BOTH WERE RELEASED BACK IN TO THE DUMP. DAN DID MANAGE TO LAND A TUNA LATER IN MUCH CLEANER WATERS WHICH CAROL MADE 6 MEALS FROM (4 DINNERS AND TWO LUNCHES). ON THE 27TH WE CELEBRATED DAN AND CAROL'S 45TH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY AND CROSSING THE MIDWAY POINT OF THE PASSAGE WITH OUR LAST BOTTLE OF WINE.

AFTER ESCAPING THE ITCZ WE PICKED UP THE NORTHEAST TRADES AND HAVE BEEN MAKING EXCELLENT TIME IN 10-18 KNOTS OF WIND. AS OF 1000 HRS TODAY WE ARE 514 MILES FROM OUR DESTINATION AND WE SHOULD BE THERE BY SUNDAY.

I HAVE HAD MANY PEOPLE ASK ME WHAT DO YOU DO TO PASS THE TIME ON THAT SMALL MOVING PLASTIC ISLAND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEA. WELL, THE THREE THINGS THAT TAKE UP THE MAJORITY OF OUR TIME ARE SLEEPING, READING AND STANDING WATCHES (IN CAROL'S CASE, AKA ADMIRAL COOKIE, PREPARING THREE MEALS A DAY FOR 4 PEOPLE). THE WATCH PERSON IS RESPONSIBLE FOR MAKING SURE THE BOAT IS GOING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION, THAT THE SAILS ARE TRIMMED, DETERMINING WHEN TO REEF/UN-REEF THE SAILS, CALLING UP HELP IF THE SITUATION SO DICTATES, AND MOST IMPORTANT MAKE SURE THE BOAT DOESN'T RUN IN TO ANYTHING. THE WATCH SCHEDULE THAT WE HAVE ADOPTED GOES LIKE THIS: I COME ON AT 2100 HRS, DAN AT MIDNIGHT AND TOM AT 0300 HOURS, I COME BACK ON AT 0600 HRS AND STAY UNTIL 1100 HRS, DAN NEXT AND TOM IS ON FROM 1600 TO 2100 HRS. THIS SCHEDULE WORKS WELL FOR ALL OF US. OTHER THINGS THAT OCCUPY OUR TIME INCLUDE PLAYING CARDS, TELLING TALL TAILS AND JOKES, EATING, WATCHING MOVIES, WRITING LOGS, FIXING THINGS THAT BREAK, MAINTAINING THINGS THAT NEED ATTENTION AND FINALLY JUST ENJOYING THE SAILING: THE WIND AND THE SEA, BEAUTIFUL SUNRISES AND SUNSETS, AND EXTREMELY CLEAR STARRY SKIES (A COUPLE OF NIGHTS AGO WE SAW BOTH THE SOUTHERN CROSS AND THE BIG DIPPER IN THE SAME SKY). WE ARE HAVING A GREAT TIME!

TILL NEXT TIME, TAKE CARE

TED

Ted's Log Stardate June 26th, 2008

MESSAGE 13 25 JUNE LATITUDE: 00 DEGREES O MINUTES, LONGITUDE: 146
DEGREES 04 MINUTES WEST

HI ALL,

AT 1401 HRS. LOCAL TIME, SAILING WITH SPINNAKER ONLY, CAPRICE AND CREW PASSED OVER THE EQUATOR INTO THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE GOING FROM WINTER TO SUMMER!! WE HAD A SPECIAL CEREMONY CHANGING THE STATUS OF DAN AND CAROL FROM TADPOLE TO SHELLBACK. BOTH TOM AND I ARE SHELLBACKS HAVING CROSSED THE EQUATOR IN A SUBMARINE (TOM) AND A SAILBOAT(ME). WE THEN CELEBRATED THE EVENT WITH A FINE FEAST OF FRENCH PATES, AMERICAN HONEY ROASTED CASHEWS, NEW ZEALAND ASPARAGUS, CANADIAN SARDINES, FRENCH BRIE, TAHITIAN BAGGETTS, AND FRENCH WINE. WE MADE SURE NEPTUNE GOT HIS SHARE.

IT TOOK US 7 DAYS AND 4 HOURS TO SAIL THE 900 MILES NORTH AND SLIGHTLY EAST FROM RANGIROA TO THE EQUATOR. WE RAISED THE ANCHOR AT 1000 HOURS ON JUNE 18. THE DAY BEFORE WE LEFT, THE "MALTEASE FALCON" THAT WE SAW IN PAPEETE, DROPPED ANCHOR RIGHT NEXT TO US. AN AMAZING SIGHT.

ON OUR FIRST DAY OUT WE HAD VERY LIGHT WINDS RESULTING IN US MOTOR SAILING SLOWLY ALL DAY AND NIGHT. DAN DID MANAGE TO LAND A 30 INCH MACKEREL WHICH CAROL COOKED FOR DINNER THAT NIGHT. JUST AFTER SUNSET, WE GOT HIT WITH A SQUALL. AFTER THE RAIN STOPPED, WITH A FULL MOON RISING IN THE EAST WE SAW A NIGHTTIME 180 DEGREE RAINBOW IN THE WESTERN SKY. WITH THE NAKED EYE IT DID NOT HAVE THE COLORS OF A DAYTIME BOW. HOWEVER WITH BINOCULARS WE COULD SEE SOME COLORS. NONE OF US HAD EVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE IT BEFORE.

THE SECOND DAY THE WINDS PICKED UP TO 12 - 15 KNOTS FROM THE EAST AND STAYED THAT WAY FOR THE NEXT FIVE DAYS. DURING THIS TIME WE REMAINED ON THE SAME TACK (STARBOARD) EXCEPT FOR TW0 360 DEGREE MANEUVERS RESULTING IN A TACK AND A JIBE TO GET BACK ON COURSE. THE FIRST WAS CAUSED BY "AUTO" THE AUTOHELM AND THE SECOND OCCURRED WHEN DAN WAS TRYING TO LAND A FISH (HE DIDN'T). OUR POINTS OF SAIL FOR THESE FIVE DAYS RANGED FROM CLOSE REACH (WIND ABOUT 45 DEGREES OFF THE BOW) TO A BEAM REACH (WIND PERPENDICULAR TO THE BOAT). WE MADE EXCELLENT TIME DURING THESE DAYS LOGGING 119, 136, 151, 141 AND 128 MILES FOR EACH 24 HOUR PERIOD.

YESTERDAY THE WIND CLOCKED AROUND TO THE SOUTH AND DROPPED BELOW 7 KNOTS. WE SAILED SLOWLY AND MOTOR SAILED FOR ABOUT 24 HOURS. TODAY THE WINDS PICKED UP TO 10-11 KNOTS AND WE HAVE BEEN DOING 5-6 KNOTS WITH ONLY THE SPINNAKER.

HAVING PASSED OVER THE EQUATOR, WE ARE NOW SAILING IN A NORTHWESTERLY DIRECTION, DIRECTLY TOWARD HAWAII. AS OF THIS MORNING WE WERE 1470 MILES FROM HONOLULU. HOPEFULLY WE WILL BE THERE WITHIN THE NEXT TWO WEEKS, PLUS OR MINUS A FEW DAYS.

WILL WRITE MORE WHILE IN ROUTE.

TILL THEN, TAKE CARE

TED

Ted's Log Stardate June 17th, 2008

MESSAGE 12 RANGIROA JUNE 17




HELLO ALL


WE HAVE BEEN ENJOYING THIS BEAUTIFUL ATOLL FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS. YESTERDAY WE ALL WENT TO THE LOCAL PEARL FARM, THIS TIME CAROL RETURNED TO THE BOAT WITH A BEAUTIFUL PEARL NECKLESS WHILE DAN RETURNED WITH A THINNER WALLET. LAST NIGHT TOM AND I TOOK DAN AND CAROL OUT FOR DINNER TO CELEBRATE THEIR UPCOMING 45th WEDDING ANNIVERSARY (JUNE 27). THE “KAI KAI”, IS A TYPICAL POLYNESIAN RESTAURANT WITH A FRENCH FLAVOR. THE FOOD WAS GREAT.


TODAY WE ARE DOING OUR FINAL PROVISIONING AND TOPPING OFF THE DIESEL TANKS IN PREPARATION FOR OUR FINAL PASSAGE TO HONOLULU WHICH IS ABOUT 2250 MILES NORTHWEST OF HERE. BECAUSE OF THE DIRECTION OF THE WINDS AND CURENTS BOTH BELOW AND ABOVE THE EQUATOR, WE WILL SAIL NORTH UNTIL WE GET A FAVORABLE WIND ANGLE FOR A DIRECT RUN TO HAWAII. THIS MEANS OF COURSE THAT WE WILL TRAVEL MORE THAN 2250 MILES. IT SHOULD TAKE US ABOUT 20-25 DAYS TO MAKE THIS RUN. WILL BE SENDING OUT MESSAGES ALONG THE WAY.


TILL THEN TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log, Stardate June 14th, 2008

MESSAGE 11 RANGIROA JUNE 14


HI ALL


AFTER 3 PLUS DAYS OF BEATING INTO THE WIND, WE DROPPED ANCHOR IN THIS BEAUTIFUL LAGOON 250 MILES NORTH EAST OF BORA BORA. THE FIRST TWO DAYS WERE VERY ROUGH AND SLOW GOING. ON THE THIRD DAY THE WINDS DIED DOWN TO BELOW 10 KNOTS, SO WE DROPPED ALL SAILS AND MOTORED DIRECTLY TO THIS ISLAND


RANGIROA IS THE LARGEST ISLAND IN THE TUAMOTU ARCHIPELAGO. THE TUAMOTUS CONSIST OF 78 ISLANDS, ALL BUT TWO BEING CORAL ATOLLS, AND EXTEND ALMOST 1,000 MILES IN A NW-SE DIRECTION. THE ATOLLS HAVE LITTLE GREENERY EXCEPT FOR PALM TREES AND SHORT GRASS. RANGIROA HAS A CIRCUMFERENCE OF ABOUT 100 MILES AND IS CONSIDERED TO BE THE SECOND LARGEST ATOLL IN THE WORLD. THE RING AROUND THE LAGOON IS FORMED BY 240 MOTUS (SMALL ISLANDS) SEPERATED BY 130 SHALLOW CHANNELS CALLED HOAS. BLACK PEARL FARMING IS THE MAJOR INDUSTRY ON THE ISLAND.


SO FAR WE HAVE HAD OUR LAUNDARY DONE BY LUCY, BOUGHT A CHUNK OF TUNA FROM LUCY (I TOSSED IT TO DAN SO HE COULD BRAG THAT HE CAUGHT A TUNA), TRADED TACO SAUCE MIX FOR A ROASTED CHICKEN FROM LOUIE, BOUGHT PASTRIES AT THE LOCAL STORE, AND FILLED UP OUR DIESEL TANKS. HOWEVER, WE HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO GET PROPANE.


CHANGE IN PLANS. ORIGNALLY WE PLANNED TO GO FROM HERE TO THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS THEN ON TO HAWAII. HOWEVER DUE TO TIME CONSTRAINTS WE ARE GOING TO SAIL DIRECTLY TO HAWAII FROM HERE, LEAVING IN ABOUT A WEEK. IT IS A FAVORITE CRUSIER EXPRESSION THAT “PLANS ARE WRITTEN IN SAND-AT LOW TIDE”.


HAWAII IS ABOUT 2250 MILES NORTHWEST OF RANGIROA AND IT SHOULD TAKE US ABOUT 20 TO 25 DAYS TO MAKE THE TRIP.


TILL NEXT TIME, TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log Stardate June 8th, 2008

MESSAGE 10 BORA BORA 8 JUNE


AHOY MATES,


AFTER DETERMINING THAT TAKING OFF THE RUBBER MEMBRANE COVERING THE SAIL-DRIVE WOULD NOT REQUIRE A HAUL-OUT, WE LEFT THE BOAT YARD IN RAIATEA AND MOTORED OVER TO THE NEIGHBORING ISLAND OF TAHAA WHERE WE PICKED UP A MOORING IN FRONT OF THE HIBISCUS HOTEL AND RESTAURANT. TOM, DAN, AND I WENT ASHORE, HAD MAI TAI’S AND MADE RESERVATIONS FOR DINNER THAT NIGHT.
THE DINNER CONSISTED OF A TAHITITIAN BUFFET WITH TATITIAN MUSIC AND DANCING. THIS TIME I DANCED ON STAGE WITH THE PERFORMERS WHILE CAROL TOOK PICTURES. THE DINNER AND SHOW WERE VERY GOOD, ALBEIT EXPENSIVE. WITH TWO DRINKS THE BILL WAS OVER $100 PER PERSON.


THE NEXT DAY, WEDNESDAY, WE MOVED CAPRICE AND ANCHORED OFF THE TURQUOISE COLORED REEF. WE SNORKELED THE REEF AND SAW HUNDREDS OF BEAUTIFUL SEA CREATURES. THAT AFTERNOON WE MOVED TO THE WEST SIDE OF THE ISLAND AND PICKED-UP A MOORING IN HUREPITI BAY.


THURSDAY WE LEFT RAIATEA/TAHAA ISLANDS AND WITH THE SPINAKER, SAILED 20 MILES NORTH WEST TO BORA BORA. AFTER WE GOT DIESEL AT THE FUEL DOCK, WE PICKED UP A MOORING IN FRONT OF THE BORA BORA YACHT CLUB. UNFORTUNATLEY THE CLUB WAS BEING REMODELED AND WILL BE CLOSED FOR TWO WEEKS. TOO BAD AS PAT AND I REALLY ENJOYED THE CLUB WHEN WE WERE HERE IN 2002.


MANY PEOPLE ARE OF THE OPINION THAT BORA BORA IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS IN THE WORLD WHAT WITH THE MAJESTIC PEAK OF MONT OTEMANU RISING STRAIGHT UP FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE ISLAND, THE COLORFUL (DEEP BLUE TO TURQUOISE) WATERS AND THE STRING OF WHITE-SANDED ISLETS SURROUNDING THE LAGOON. DURING WORLD WAR II, THE U.S. NAVY OCCUPIED THE ISLAND. MOST OF THE ROADS AROUND BORA BORA AND THE RUNWAY FOR THE AIRPORT WERE CONSTRUCTED DURING THIS PERIOD. THE NAVY SURROUDED THE ISLAND WITH 7 INCH CANONS, ONE OF WHICH IS STILL ON THE MOUNTAIN


THE NEXT DAY WE MOVED CAPRICE TO A MOORING IN FRONT OF THE BLOODY MARY’S RESTAURANT WHERE YOU WALK ON SAND FLOORS, CHOOSE YOUR MEAL FROM A FISH AND MEAT DISPLAY AND DINE ON TABLES MADE OF COCONUT WOOD . WE HAD
MIA TIA’S, BLOODY MARYS, LUNCH AND A GREAT DINNER THERE. IF YOU EVER GET TO BORA BORA, DINNER AT BLOODY MARY’S IS A MUST DO.


WE ALSO VISITED A NEARBY PEARL FARM WHERE CAROL TRIED ON A FEW BEAUTIFUL AND EXPENSIVE NECKLACES. HOWEVER, WE LEFT THE FARM WITH NO JEWERLY AND DAN’S WALLET INTACT.


WE STAYED ON BOARD ALL DAY YESTERDAY HAS WE HAD STRONG WINDS WITH GUSTS IN THE HIGH 30’S. THE PLAN IS TO REMAIN HERE TODAY AND LEAVE EARLY TOMORROW FOR THE ISLAND OF RANGIROA IN THE TUAMOTU ARCHIPELAGO ABOUT 250 MILES T0 THE NORTHEAST.


TILL THEN, TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log Stardate June 3rd, 2008

MESSAGE 9 RIAITEA, FRENCH POLYNESIA JUNE 3


AHOY FRIENDS,


AFTER 3 DAYS IN THE TIANA MARINA, WE FUELED UP AND SAILED (ACTUALLY MOTORED AS THERE WAS NO WIND AT ALL) TO THE ISLAND OF MOOREA ABOUT 15 MILE WEST OF TAHITI. MOOREA IS SHAPED LIKE THE LETTER “W” WITH TWO DEEP BAYS ON THE NORTH SIDE. OUR FIRST ANCHORAGE WAS DEEP IN COOK’S BAY, A BEAUTIFUL SETTING WITH HIGH MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS ALL AROUND. ONE PEAK, MONT MOUAROA WAS THE BACK DROP IN THE FILM VERSION OF “SOUTH PACIFIC”. COOK’S BAY WAS ALSO THE SETTING FOR THE PICTURE “BOUNTY” WITH MEL GIBSON. THE SECOND NIGHT THERE CAROL, TOM AND MYSELF (DAN WAS NURSING A SORE TOE) WENT TO SHORE AND HAD DINNER AT THE SAME SMALL FRENCH RESTAURANT THAT PAT AND I WITH BOB AND RENEE ATE AT IN 2002. THE LaPATETE MANSION. THE FOOD THIS TIME WAS JUST AS GREAT AS IT WAS BACK THEN. THE NEXT NIGHT WE ALL WENT TO A DINNER AND SAW A TAHITIAN DANCE AT THE FAMOUS BALI HAI HOTEL. CAROL JOINED IN THE DANCING AND WAS THE HIT OF THE NIGHT.


AFTER 3 DAYS AT COOK’S BAY WE MOVE TO OPUNOHU BAY AND ANCHORED AT ITS MOUTH. WHILE THERE WE WENT SNORKLING AND SAW SOME BEAUTIFUL FISH AND A VARIETY OF CORAL. AFTER TWO DAYS WE HAULED ANCHOR AND MOTORED(STILL VERY LITTLE WIND) TO THE ISLAND OF RIATEA 100 MILES NORTHWEST OF MOOREA. MOTORING SLOWLY WE TIED UP AT A DOCK IN THE TOWN UTAROA 24 HOURS LATER.
RIATEA AND THE NEIGHBORING ISLAND OF TAHAA LIE WITHIN THE SAME CORAL REEF. BOTH ISLANDS, AS WITH ALL THE ISLANDS IN FRENCH POLYNESIA, ARE VERY BEAUFTIFUL. AT ONE TIME RAIATEA WAS THE CULTURAL AND RELIGIOUS CENTER OF THE SOCIETIES.


WE STAYED ON THE DOCK FOR TWO DAYS, WALKED THE TOWN AND HAD A NICE DINNER AT A CHINESE RESTAURANT. THIS MORNING WE MOVED TO THE WEST SIDE OF THE ISLAND TO A MARINE BOAT YARD. WHEN DAN DOVE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BOAT IN MOOREA HE DISCOVERED THAT A RUBBER MEMBRANE AROUND THE SAIL DRIVE (PART OF THE MOTOR) WAS COMING LOOSE AND HE FELT THAT WE NEEDED TO SEE IF IT COULD BE REPAIRED. AFTER CONSULTING EXPERTS AT THE YARD, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT IT WAS NOT A SERIOUS PROBLEM. DAN DOVE THE BOAT AGAIN AND REMOVED THE MEMBRANE. HE WILL GET IT REPLACED THE NEXT TIME THE BOAT IS HAULED.


LATER TODAY WE WILL MOVE OVER TO TAHAA AND AFTER VISITING THERE IT IS ON TO BORA BORA.


TILL NEXT TIME TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log Stardate May 25, 2008

MESSAGE 8, MARINA TAINA, TAHITI MAY 25


HI All,


AFTER THREE DAYS AND NIGHTS AT THE MARINA IN DOWNTOWN PAPEETE, WE MOVED CAPRICE ABOUT 10 MILES SOUTH TO HERE. THE RECENTLY CONSTRUCTED TAINA MARINE IS MUCH QUIETER, HAS LESS SURGE THAN THE ONE IN PAPEETE AND IS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF A LARGE MALL WHICH HAS A WALMART TYPE STORE--GREAT FOR PROVISIONING. THE PAPEETE MARINA IS OK, JUST A LOT OF CITY NOISE DAY AND NIGHT. HOWEVER IT IS CONVENIENT TO THE CITY HIGHLITES. IT IS ABOUT A 20-30 MINUTE BUS RIDE TO PAPETE FROM HERE.


WHILE IN PAPEETE, TOM PERKINS’ FAMOUS YACHT THE “MALTESE FALCON” ARRIVED AND DOCKED NEAR US. TOM PERKINS IS A VERY SUCCESSFUL VENTURE CAPITALIST WHO MADE MILLIONS BACKING SILICON VALLEY BASED COMPANIES SUCH AS GENETIC, GOOGLE, AND NETSCAPE. HE WAS NOVELIST DANIELLE STEEL’S FIFTH HUSBAND AND WAS CONVICTED OF MANSLAUGHTER IN FRANCE FOLLOWING A BOATING ACCIDENT.


THE MALTESE FALCON IS A 130 MILLION DOLLAR STATE OF THE ART 3 MASTED, SQUARE RIGGED CLIPPER YACHT. AT 289 FEET LONG AND 42 FEET WIDE, IT IS THE LARGEST PRIVATELY OWNED SAILING VESSEL IN THE WORLD. EACH OF THE FREE STANDING 192- FOOT HIGH MASTS HAVE 5 SAILS AND CAN ROTATE 180 DEGREES. THE NAVAGATION STATION LOOKS LIKE A STAR WARS SET. IN FACT THIS YACHT COULD HAVE BEEN DARTH VADER’S SPACE SHIP. QUITE A SIGHT!


A LITTLE ABOUT PAPEETE AND TAHITI.. AS MOST OF YOU KNOW, PAT AND I SAILED HERE IN 2002 WITH BOB AND RENEE MILLER ON THEIR BOAT “WANDERING STAR”. OUTSIDE OF THE NEW MARINAS, NOT MUCH HAS CHANGED. PAPEETE IS A TYPICAL EUPOPEAN
SEA-SIDE CITY: HEAVY TRAFFIC, NOISY, EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS, SIDE WALK CAFES, BARS, SHOPS CATERING TO TOURISTS, AND ORNATE CATHEDRALS. IT IS A GREAT, BUT VERY EXPENSIVE PLACE TO REPROVISION, GET FUEL, BOAT PARTS, DO LAUNDRY ETC. EXAMPLES OF EXPENSIVE: $10.00 FOR ONE WASH IN A LAUNDROMAT AND $5 MORE TO DRY, $25.00 FOR A CASE OF COKE (SMALL CANS), $50.00 FOR A CASE OF LOCAL BEER, AND $5.00 FOR A SMALL PACKAGE OF PRETZELS. FUEL, MEAT, FISH AND SOME VEGGIES ARE MORE REASONABLE.


TAHITI IS THE LARGEST AND MOST POPULATED ISLAND IN FRENCH POLNESIA. IT IS SHAPED LIKE THE FIGURE 8 AS A RESULT OF TWO AJACENT VOLCANOES. THE LARGEST PART OF THE FIGURE IS KNOW AS TAHITI NUI, AND THE OTHER, TAHITI ITI. IT IS PART OF THE SOCIETY ISLANDS WHICH ALSO CONTAINS THE ISLANDS OF MOOREA, RAIATEA, AND BORA BORA IT WAS “DISCOVERED” BY ENGLISHMAN SAMUEL WALLIS IN 1767. THE NEXT YEAR FRENCH NAVIGATOR ANTOINE de BOUGAINVILLE NAMED IT “NEW CYTHERA”. A YEAR LATER CAPTIAN COOK TOOK POSSESSION OF THE SOCIETY ISLANDS FOR ENGLAND. TAHITI WAS THE SITE OF CAPTAIN BLY’S BREADFRUIT EXPEDITION WHICH LED TO THE FAMOUS “HMS BOUNTY” MUTINY. IN THE 19TH CENTURY FRANCE TOOK POSSESSION OF ALL THE SUROUNDING ISLAND GROUPS, INCLUDING THE TUAMOTUS, MARQUESAS’, THE GAMBIERS, THE AUSTRALS AS WELL AS ALL THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. IN 1958 THE FRENCH NAMED THE ISLAND GROUP “FRENCH POLYNESIA”.
.
WE WILL BE LEAVING HERE IN A DAY OR SO AND VISITING THE OTHER SOCITY ISLANDS STARTING WITH MOOREA. LET THE FUN BEGIN! TILL NEXT TIME, TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log Stardate May 22, 2008

MESSAGE 7, MAY 22, PAPEETE, TAHITI


HELLO FROM TAHITI,


WE ARRIVED HERE TUESDAY MORNING AFTER A 3 DAY SAIL NORTH FROM TUBUAI. WE LEFT THERE SATURDAY AT 1030 HOURS. WHILE RAISING THE SAIL ON OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO LEAVE, THE STEERING MECHANISM JAMMED. WE WERE ABLE TO LIMP BACK TO THE ANCHORAGE AND AFTER AN HOUR, DAN AND TOM FOUND AND FIXED THE PROBLEM--A CABLE HAD JUMP A PULLEY. WE HAULED THE ANCHOR AGAIN, RAISED SAILS AND HEADED NORTH.


FOR MOST OF THE FRIST TWO DAYS WE HAD 20 PLUS WINDS FROM THE SOUTHWEST (GOOD), HOWEVER WE ALSO HAD VERY ROUGH SEAS AND PASSED THROUGH ONE SQUALL AFTER ANOTHER (NOT GOOD).


THE FIRST NIGHT (ACTUALLY 0300 THE NEXT MORNING) WE WERE HIT WITH A SQUALL WITH WINDS IN THE 30 PLUS RANGE AND WITH SOME DIFFICULTY THE FOUR OF US WERE ABLE TO PUT A THIRD REEF IN THE MAINSAIL (REDUCED SAIL AREA). THE NEXT NIGHT WE HAD WINDS NEAR 40 KNOTS, AND A SUDDEN GUST CAUSED THE SAIL TO JIBE (WIND PASSING FROM ONE SIDE OF THE SAIL TO THE OTHER). BECAUSE WE HAD A PREVENTER ON ( A LINE HOLDING THE BOOM TO THE LEEWARD SIDE OF THE BOAT), THE BOAT WAS TURNED INTO THE WIND AND ESSENTIALLY PUTTING THE BOAT IN A HEAVE-TO SITUATION (STALLED). AGAIN ALL HANDS ON DECK TO GET THE PROBLEM SORTED OUT. WITH THE SQUALLS AND ROUGH SEAS THE FIRST 48 HOURS WAS LIKE A MR TOADS WILD RIDE.


THE THIRD DAY THE WINDS QUIETED DOWN CONSIDERABLY WITH SOUTHERLY WINDS IN THE 8-10 KNOT RANGE. WE HAD A GREAT DAY, NO SQUALLS AND CLEAR SKIES. DURING THE NIGHT WE LOST MOST OF OUR WIND AND WE MOTOR-SAILED THE REMAINDER OF OUR PASSAGE OVER FLAT SEAS. WE ARRIVE ALONG THE TAHITIAN COASTLINE DURING A BEAUTIFULL SUNRISE.


WE CELEBRATED OUR ARRIVAL WITH BLOODY MARYS AND SNACKS ON THE SAILING VESSEL “PEREGRINE”. WE HAD CONNECTED WITH THEM IN TUBUIA AND THE TWO OF US BUDDY-BOATED DURING OUR SAIL HERE. DAN, CAROL AND TOM HAD MET MIKE AND TRACEY, OWNERS OF PEREGRINE IN NEW ZEALAND. WE WERE IN E-MAIL AND RADIO CONTACT WITH THEM DURING OUR PASSAGE FROM OPUA.


WE ARE NOW MED-MOORED (STERN TO THE SLIP) TO A BRAND NEW DOCK IN DOWNTOWN PAPEETE. WHILE HERE WE WILL CLEAN-UP, FIX PROBLEMS, DO MAINTENCE PROJECTS ON THE BOAT, DO LAUNDRY ETC., KICK BACK AND ENJOY THE FRUITS OF PARADISE.


WILL WRITE MORE ON PAPEETE, AND TAHITI IN MY NEXT RAMBLING.


TILL THEN, TAKE CARE


TED

Ted's Log Stardate May 16, 2008

MESSAGE 6 MAY 16
LATITUDE 32 DEGREES 21 MINUTES SOUTH: LONGITUDE 149 DEGREES 30 MINUTES WEST MATAURA, TUBUAI

BONJOUR,

WE MADE IT!! DROPPED ANCHOR IN THIS LOVELY HARBOR IN FRONT OF THE SMALL TOWN MATAURA ON THE ISLAND OF TUBUAI AT 2130 HRS. (NEW ZEALAND
TIME) MAY 14 (TUBUAI DATE). IT TOOK US 18 DAYS 8 HOURS TO COMPLETE THE TRIP.

FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS AT SEA WE HAD VERY LIGHT WINDS RESULTING IN MOTORING VERY SLOWLY TO CONSERVE FUEL FOR ABOUT 30 HOURS. THE LAST DAY WE WERE ABLE TO FLY THE SPINNAKER IN 5-8 KNOTS OF WIND DOING 4-5 KNOTS OF SPEED.

WE ARRIVE AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR AFTER DARK AND MADE THE DECISION TO ENTER INSTEAD OF WAITING FOR DAYLIGHT. THE ENTRANCE IS EXTREMELY WELL LIGHTED WITH FLASHING GREEN AND RED MARKERS ALONG THE ROUTE AND WE HAD NO PROBLEMS GETTING TO THIS ANCHORAGE.

WE CELEBRATED OUR ACCOMPLISHMENT WITH COCKTAILS, WINE AND A LATE DINNER OF BUTTERED CHICKEN.

TUBIA IS ONE OF SEVEN ISLANDS FIVE OF WHICH ARE INHABITED IN HE AUSTRAL ISLANDS WHICH ARE A PART OF FRENCH POLYNESIA. IT IS A HIGH VOLCANIC ISLAND ABOUT 5 MILES LONG AND 3 MILES WIDE AND IS SURROUNDED BY A BARRIER REEF MEASURING 9 MILES BY 6 MILES. IT HAS A POPULATION OF ABOUT 2000 AND HAS 6 SMALL TOWNS/VILLAGES THE PRINCIPLE ONE BEING MATAURA. THE TOWN HAS A COUPLE OF GROCERY STORES, ONE GAS STATION, BANK, POST OFFICE AND A RESTAURANT.

CAPTAIN COOK DISCOVERED THIS ISLAND IN 1777. IN 1789 THE MUTINEERS FROM THE HMS BOUNTY LANDED HERE AND ATTEMPTED TO MAKE A SETTLEMENT.
THE LOCALS REJECTED THIS INVASION AND VIOLENCE BROKE OUT RESULTING IN
66 NATIVES BEING KILLED. THE MUTINEERS EVENTUALLY LEFT TUBUAI AND ENDED UP SETTLING ON PITCAIRN ISLAND 1060 MILES TO THE EAST.

ON OUR FIRST DAY HERE DAN CHECKED US IN WITH THE LOCAL GENDARMES, AFTER WHICH WE DID A LITTLE GROCERY SHOPPING AND EXPERIENCED STICKER SHOCK. EXAMPLE: $12.00 U.S. FOR A FEW LEAVES OF LETTUCE! LATER WE JERRY CANNED ABOUT 40 GALLONS OF DIESEL FUEL FROM THE GAS STATION TO THE BOAT.

OUR PLANS ARE TO STAY HERE A COUPLE OF DAYS AND WHEN WE HAVE A FAVORABLE WEATHER WINDOW, HEAD TO PAPEETE, TAHITI ABOUT 350 MILES DUE NORTH.

TILL NEXT TIME TAKE CARE

TED

Captain's Log Stardate May 15, 2008

We made landfall tonight (May 14th) at 830. After threading our way into the harbor at Tubuai at night, we had a cocktail and are congratulating each other on the trip.

Cheers,
Caprice and great crew,

Captain's Log Stardate May 14, 2008

Exotic Islands of the South Pacific: Tubuai, Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Rangiroa, Minihi, Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva. Most of these islands many of us have never heard of. Or they were just names in novels or a movie. Most of us have never dreamed we would actually visit, let alone on our own sailboat. But dreams change and suddenly we realized that this adventure of a lifetime could actually happen. Here we are, about 3 days southwest of a small island in the South Pacific. Tubuai, in the Australes, is our first stop mainly because it is the southern most island on our approach to Tahiti. The Australes are a group of islands spreading over 800 miles across the Tropic of Capricorn. It includes the islands of Maria, Rimatora, Rurutu, Tubuai and Raivavae. The islands are high, volcanic islands, surrounded by fringing coral reefs close to the islands. They are part of French Polynesia and are more humid than Tahiti. The islands are fertile and support coffee and orange plantations. The history of the Austales show that they once supported warlike villages, but the population was decimated by disease. Tubuai once violently rejected the HMS Bounty’s mutineers.
We have been at sea for 15 days after leaving Bay of Islands, New Zealand. We have experienced everything from almost calm seas to 47 knot winds and 15 foot seas. However, sailing in our Seawind 1160 has been a dream. We can average about 6 to 7 knots in a 12 knot beam reach. Our fastest day on this leg of our journey was 178 nautical miles, where we sailed all day and night with spinnaker. Our average distance is 125 miles per day. The comfort supplied by the 38’ catamaran "Caprice" is marvelous. We can cook, shower and read comfortably on the level without having to hang on . We celebrated our half-way point with our cook, Admiral Carol", supplying the chef’s skills to a tee by fixing filet mignon. With "boat made" ice cream dessert We have been enjoying the mahi mahi which we caught a few days ago. Our crew consists of Dan and Carol Seifers, owners, , and able bodied crew of Tom Hanson and Ted Stuart. We have been relatively free of equipment failures outside of replacing chafed lines and a few broken blocks. Our Spectra watermaker still makes water, but I had to disable a feature which diverts water overboard if the salinity is too, high. I hope to get this fixed in Tahiti.
I have always advocated that ocean crossings are not "fun", but adventues that makes one glad to have accomplished. Sort of like, " I am glad I done it, but not sure I would do it again". This trip is different. I think everyone on board is truly enjoying this crossing. In fact Ted lamented today when we were talking about making land fall in a few days. He said, "Life is beautiful, it can’t get any better than this. I don’t want to land yet". This is on a sunny day where the temperature is about 85 degrees, winds are 12 knots from the northeast and we are on a rhumb line headed for Tubuai. Life is good!!
After a few days in Tubuai to stock up on vegetables, fruits, bread (although we have been making our own bread), and some fuel, we will take the hop up to Tahiti 350 miles to the North about May 20. After a few days in Papeete, we want to visit the Society Islands of Moorea, Raiatea and Bora Bora before heading North to the Tuamoto Islands.
Cheers for now.
Caprice and crew.

Ted's Log Stardate May 11, 2008

MESSAGE 5: DAY 15, LATITUDE 24 DEGREES SOUTH, LONGITUDE 156 DEGREES WEST

HI ALL

WE ARE JUST A FEW DAYS FROM LANDFALL. SO FAR WE HAVE HAD VERY FAVORABLE WINDS FOR THE MOST PART. HOWEVER, WE DO HIT ONE OR MORE SQUALLS EACH DAY. THEY COME ON FAST AND RESULT IN MIXED WINDS AND HEAVY RAINS.

OUR ORIGINAL PLAN FOR THIS TRIP WAS TO SAIL DIRECTLY EAST IN THE AREA WHERE THE WINDS USUALLY COME FROM THE WEST AND BELOW THE TRADE WINDS WHICH ARE FROM THE EAST. WE WOULD CONTINUE IN THIS DIRECTION UNTIL REACHING THE LONGITUDE (SOUTH) OF OUR PLANNED DESTINATION AND THEN TURN NORTH IN THE TRADE WINDS (OUR DESTINATION IS NORTHEAST OF OUR START POINT). HOWEVER, DURING THIS TRIP THE TRADE WINDS HAVE REMAINED FURTHER NORTH THEN USUAL AND WE HAVE BEEN ABLE TO SAIL IN A MORE DIRECT NORTHEASTERLY COURSE, SAVING A MANY MILES.

WE HAVE BEEN AVERAGING ABOUT 125 MILES A DAY ON OUR COURSE. AS WE DON'T SAIL IN A STRAIGHT LINE WE ACTUALLY SAIL MORE MILES IN DAY. WE HAVE SAILED OVER 160 MILES IN A 24 HOUR PERIOD ON 4 OCCASIONS.

CAPRICE CAN REALLY SCOOT UNDER CERTAIN WIND AND WAVE CONDITIONS.
YESTERDAY WE WERE BROAD REACHING (WINDS PERPENDICULAR TO THE BOAT) WITH 10 T0 12 KNOT WINDS AND DOING 6-8 KNOTS.

SO FAR WE HAVEN'T HAD ANY SERIOUS PROBLEMS WITH THE BOAT, A FEW BROKEN BLOCKS (PULLEYS), HAD TO REPLACE SOME FRAYED LINES, AND UNTANGLED SOME HALYARDS AND REEFING LINES. TODAY THE WATER MAKER WENT DOWN, HOWEVER DAN HAS BEEN ABLE TO GETTING IT WORKING AGAIN.

IN DESCRIBING CAPRICE IN MY LAST MESSAGE, I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT SHE IS 21.5 FEET WIDE AND CARRIES THIS WIDTH FROM BOW TO STERN.

FISHERMAN DAN HAS BEEN TRYING TO CATCH FISH SINCE WE LEFT NEW ZEALAND. FOUR DAYS AGO HE HOOKED A MARLIN WITH HIS $100 LURE. THE FISH DID A FEW TAIL-WALKS AND BROKE THE LINE. LAST SEEN THE MARLIN WAS TAIL-WALKING WITH DAN'S $100 LURE IN ITS MOUTH. DAN CONTINUED HIS QUEST AND TWO DAYS LATER HOOKED AND LANDED A 40 INCH, 30 POUND DORADO/ MAHI MAHI WITH A LURE GIVEN TO HIM BY HIS FRIEND ROY HENRICSON. CAROL FIXED THE FISH FOR DINNERS IN A VARIETY OF WAYS - BAKED WITH AN ASIAN SAUCE, BEER BATTERED, AND SMOKED. EXCELLENT!

HOPEFULLY MY NEXT MESSAGE WILL BE AFTER LANDFALL

TILL THEN, TAKE CARE

Ted's Log Stardate May 8th, 2008

DAY 11 LATITUDE 30 DEGREES SOUTH, LONGITUDE 164 DEGREES WEST

HI FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC

WE PASSED THE HALF WAY POINT SOMETIME DURING THE 9TH DAY AT SEA AND
CELEBRATED LAST NIGHT WITH FILET MIGNON, SCALLOPED POTATOES, SWEET AND
SOUR CARROTS AND HOME-MADE ICE CREAM.

WE HAVE HAD JUST ABOUT EVERY TYPE OF WIND CONDITIONS ONE CAN EXPECT, 3
DAYS BEATING INTO 30 KNOT WINDS, 3 DAYS RUNNING WITH 10-15 KNOTS, 2
MORE DAYS BEATING THIS TIME WITH 20 KNOTS, 1 DAY BEAM REACHING (WIND
PERPENDICULAR TO THE BOAT) IN 20 KNOTS, AND A DAY PLUS MOTORING IN
VERY LIGHT WINDS. RIGHT NOW WE ARE SAILING DOWN-WIND WITH 8 T0 10
KNOTS USING THE SPINNAKER(DOING 5-6 KNOTS). WITH THE EXCEPTION 0F THE
30 KNOT WINDS THE RIDE HAS BEEN RELATIVELY COMFORTABLE.

OUR DESTINATION IS THE ISLAND OF TUBUAI WHICH IS IN THE FRENCH
POLYNESIAN AUSTRAL ISLANDS GROUP. TUBUAI IS A SMALL ISLAND ABOUT 350
MILES SOUTH OF PAPEETE, TAHITI. WILL DESCRIBE IT IN MORE DETAIL WHEN
WE GET THERE.

INFO ON CAPRICE:
AS MENTION BEFORE THE BOAT IS A 38 FOOT CATAMARAN. IT IS A SLOOP
RIGGED BOAT (ONE MAST) AND HAS TWO 30 HORSE POWER DESIEL ENGINES, ONE
IN EACH HULL. THE PORT HULL (LEFT) CONTAINS THE MASTER BEDROOM, A
NAVIGATION STATION AND A HEAD WITH A SPERATE SHOWER. THE OTHER HULL
CONTAINS TWO SMALLER BEDROOMS, A COMPLETE GALLEY AND ANOTHER HEAD.
BOTH HEADS HAVE AN ELECTRIC FLUSH TOILET. THE GALLEY HAS AN UPRIGHT
REFRIGURATOR , A DOUBLE COMPARTMENT FREEZER CHEST, A THREE BURNER
PROPANE STOVE WITH OVEN, AND A BUILT-IN MICROWAVE OVEN. THE BRIDGE
CONNECTING THE HULLS HAS A LARGE LIVING/DINNING ROOM WITH A 360 DEGREE
VIEW. THE COCKPIT HAS TWO STEERING STATION ONE ON EACH SIDE, A CHEST
REFRIDUATOR, A BARBEQUE, AND A LIFE RAFT. THE BOAT HAS TWO 120 WATT
SOLAR PANELS AND A 15 GALLON PER-HOUR FRESH WATER MAKER.

EVEN WITH ALL THESE CONVENIENCES CAPRICE IS A GREAT SAILING VESSEL.

CLOSING FOR NOW, HOPE THIS FINDS YOU ALL WELL

TILL NEXT TIME, TAKE CARE

TED

Ted's Log Stardate May 1, 2008

HELLO FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC
WE ARE AT LATITUDE 34 SOUTH, LONGITUDE 176 EAST
ON SUNDAY, APRIL 27 (NEW ZEALAND TIME) WE FUELED UP, GOT PROPANE,
CLEARED CUSTOMS AND BEGAN
OUR SAIL FROM OPUA AT 1340 HRS. UNDER CLEAR SKIES AND LIGHT WINDS WE
CLEARED THE BAY OF ISLANDS TWO HOURS LATER. AFTER DARK THE WINDS
PICKED UP TO ABOUT 15 KNOTS FROM THE NORTHEAST. AS WE WANT TO SAIL
EASTWARD, THE BOAT HAS TO SAIL CLOSE TO THE WIND (BEATING). CATAMARANS
SAIL RELATIVELY FLAT UNLIKE MONOHULLS WHICH ARE ALWAYS HEALED TO ONE
SIDE OR THE OTHER. SAILING FLAT IS USUALLY MORE COMFORTABLE FOR THE
CREW, HOWEVER, CATS TEND TO SAIL NEAR THE TOP OF THE WATER UNLIKE
MONOHULLS WHICH CUT THROUGH THE WATER. THEREFORE WHEN BEATING IN HEAVY
WEATHER THE CAT WILL BOUNCE AROUND MORE THAN MONOHULLS. AND HEAVY
WEATHER WE DID HAVE FOR THE FIRST 3 DAYS. THE WINDS WENT FROM THE
TWENTIES TO THE THIRTIES WITH GUSTS INTO THE FORTIES (WE RECORDED ONE
GUST AT 47 KNOTS). NEEDLESS TO SAY IT WAS A VERY UNCOMFORTABLE 3 DAYS.
HOWEVER THE BOAT AND CREW CAME THROUGH THE ORDEAL EXTREMELY WELL.

THE MORNING OF THE FOURTH DAY WE CROSSED THE INTERNATIONAL DATELINE,
LOSING A DAY. WE ARE NOW ON THE SAME DAY AS YOU ARE. LATER THAT DAY
THE WINDS SHIFTED TO THE SOUTHWEST AND SMOOTHED OUT THE RIDE
CONSIDERABLE. CATS DO GREAT GOING DOWN WIND. WE EVEN RAISED A
SPINNAKER AND ALL IS WELL.

SO FAR WE HAVEN'T HAD ANY MAJOR PROBLEMS. THE FIRST NIGHT THE MAIN
HALYARD (THE ROPE HOLDING UP THE MAINSAIL) GOT CAUGHT HIGH ON THE
FRONT OF THE MAST. IT TOOK US TWO HOURS TO CLEAR IT WITHOUT GOING UP
THE MAST.

SO FAR WE HAVE SAILED ABOUT 500 MILES FROM OPUA. IT LOOKS LIKE WE WILL
HAVE THESE SOUTHWESTERLY WINDS FOR AT LEAST THE NEXT 3 DAYS. LOOKING
FORWARD TO IT.

TILL NEXT TIME, TAKE CARE
TED

Ted's Log, Stardate April 24, 2008

HI FROM OPUA, NEW ZEALAND

PAT AND TOM'S WIFE MERRIE FLEW BACK TO CALIFORNIA ON FRIDAY, APRIL 18TH.

THE NEXT DAY DAN, CAROL, TOM AND MYSELF LEFT AUCKLAND ON CAPRICE AND SAILED ALONG THE COAST NORTH TO OPUA WITH STOPS ON THE ISLAND OF KAWAU, THE CITY OF WHANGAREI, AND THE SMALL RESORT TOWN OF TUTUKAKA.

THE SAIL FOR THE MOST PART WAS DOWNWIND OR ON A BEAM REACH (WIND AT RIGHT ANGLE TO THE BOAT) WITH WINDS BLOWING 10 TO 30+ KNOTS. CAPRICE SAILED BEAUTIFULLY.
SOME BUMPY TIMES BUT MOSTLY SMOOTH SAILING.

WE SPENT THREE DAYS IN WHANGAREI WHERE WE PROVISIONED FOR THE TRIP TO FRENCH POLYNESIA. IT TOOK THREE TRIPS TO THE SUPERMARKET TO GET ALL THE FOOD STUFF AND PAPER PRODUCTS THAT WE WILL NEED.

WHANGAREI IS LOCATED NEAR THE HEAD OF A RIVER ABOUT 15 MILES FROM THE OCEAN. THE ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER IS A MASS OF BOILING WATER NOT UNLIKE ROUGH RAPIDS. CAPRICE GOT BOUNCED AROUND PRETTY GOOD FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES BOTH ENTERING AND LEAVING THE RIVER. IT WAS UNCOMFORTABLE FOR THE CREW, BUT THE BOAT HELD UP VERY WELL.

OUPA IS A SMALL TOWN, CATERING TO MARINERS, LOCATED IN THE BEAUTIFUL "BAY OF ISLANDS" NEAR THE TOP OF NEW ZEALAND. WE WILL REMAIN HERE A FEW DAYS DOING LAST MINUTE REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE-CHECKS ON THE BOAT AND WHEN THE WEATHER IS RIGHT, HEAD EAST FOR THE FRENCH POLYNESIAN ISLANDS.

THE DISTANCE FROM HERE TO OUR FIRST STOP IS ABOUT 2200 MILES AND WE HOPE TO MAKE IT IN LESS THEN 3 WEEKS.

I WILL SEND MORE MESSAGES IN ROUTE

TILL THEN

TED

Ted's Log, Stardate April 17, 2008

HI FROM AUCKLAND,

PAT AND I ARRIVED HERE LAST WEDNESDAY AND HAVE BEEN DOING THE TOURESTY THINGS THROUGHOUT THE NORTHERN PART OF NEW ZEALAND'S NORTH ISLAND SINCE THEN. PAT WILL BE FLYING BACK HOME TOMORROW AND WITHIN A DAY OR TWO I WILL BEGIN MY SAILING TRIP ON THE SAILING VESSEL "CAPRICE"

"CAPRICE" IS A SEAWIND 1160 OWNED BY OUR GOOD FRIENDS DAN AND CAROL SEIFERS. THE BOAT WAS CONSTRUCTED LAST YEAR IN AUSTRALIA AND THEY TOOK DELIVERY IN SYDNEY LAST NOVEMBER. WITH THEIR SON VAUGHN AND HIS FRIEND DAVID RASMUSSEN AS CREW THEY SAILED THE BOAT HERE IN DECEMBER.

ON THIS UPCOMING TRIP, CAROL, DAN AND MYSELF WILL BE JOINED BY CREW MEMBER AND GOOD FRIEND TOM HANSEN. ALL OF US LIVE IN POINT RICHMOND AND ARE MEMBERS OF THE RICHMOND YACHT CLUB.

THE PLAN FOR THIS TRIP IS TO SAIL NORTH ALONG THE NEW ZEALAND COAST TO THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND WITH A FAVORABLE WEATHER WINDOW HEAD OUT TO OUR DESTINATION OF HAWAII.

THIS TRIP IS SIMILAR TO THE ONE I MADE IN 2003 ON BOB AND RENEE MILLER'S SAILBOAT "WANDERING STAR" BUT WITH TWO MAJOR DIFFERENCES. FIRST IS THE ROUTE. IN 2003 WE LEFT NEW ZEALAND AND SAILED TO FIJI, TONGA, AMERICAN SAMOA AND CHRISTMAS ISLAND. ON THIS TRIP WE PLAN TO SAIL EAST TO FRENCH POLYNESIA AND AFTER VISITING VARIOUS ISLANDS WILL SAIL NORTH TO HAWAII.

THE SECOND MAJOR DIFFERENCE IS THE BOAT. "WANDERING STAR" WAS A 38-FOOT MONO-HULL SLOOP, WHILE "CAPRICE"
IS A 38-FOOT CATAMARAN (MULTI-HULL). THERE ARE SIGNIFCANT DIFFERNCES IN THE WAY THESE BOAT SAIL.

I WILL GO INTO MORE DETAIL ON THESE DIFFERENCES IN SUBSEQUENT MESSAGES.
UNTIL THEN, TAKE CARE
TED

Rethinking our route

Well now that we have returned to the USA, we have been rethinking our travel plans. Everyone we talk to asks, "Why are you in such a rush to get the boat home? Why don't you spend more time in Polynesi? You may only get one chance to visit paradise."

So, we are rethinking our plans. Wouldn't it be nice to see more of the Islands? Why don't we take a shorter trip to Tonga, Fiji, Samoans for 4 months, then put the boat up on the hard in a place like Raiatea for the winter, then pick the boat up again in the spring and sail it to Alaska, where we will be able to spend several summer months cruising down the coast? Sounds great, but we have a lot of mechanics to work out. Will Tom and Ted like the idea? Will our lovely house sitter and dog sitter, Gunda. be able to come back next year? How much will it cost to put the boat on the hard for 6 months? Anyway, we might change our plans. In the interim, Tom, Merrie, Ted and Pat are traveling throughout New Zealand, while using Caprice as a home base. The Spectra Watermaker is not working properly yet, but the fix-it man is there today. We jump back on the plane tonight (Monday, April 14, 2008) and arrive in N.Z. on Wednesday. Hopefully the watermaker will be fixed, Tom and Merrie will spend a couple nights in Davenport, then the ladies leave to come back home. In the interim we will be discussing the possible optional travel plans. Keep tuned to find out where we will be going.

Tom and Merrie are here

Tom and Merrie are here. They got a thorough briefing on the boat. Tom learned how to drive the boat in and out of the slip, then we decided to travel north to Mahurangi Harbour, we tried to fish for red snapper, which everyone says are easy to catch, but have only caught some shakers so far.
We walked on beautiful Kauwau Island from School House Bay where we overnighted last night aboard the 4-star HMS Caprice to Mansion House... a lovely walk through a New Zealand forest of ferns and firs.
Then we sailed with the main and spinnaker sails flying... we were screaming across the Hauraki Gulf back to Bayswater Marina... and the boat was perfectly flat..

We are sitting across from the Auckland cityscape enjoying a glass of New Zealand wine and anticipating and Easter dinner of roast New Zealand lamb, cauliflower, butternut squash followed by a rousing game of up and down gin! Life is good...

Cheers to all of you!
Merrie, Tom, Carol and Dan
The motley crew of Caprice!

Kiwiland

Auckland is the largest Polynesian city in the world. It is the home to 1.5 million people in New Zealand’s fastest growing region. Auckland accounts for 1/3 New Zealand’s economy, yet it is a stone’s throw to magnificent beaches, sparkling blue waters and sparcely populated islands.
In the heart of Auckland one can find bustling activity in the financial section or unlimited selection of fresh sea food at the fish market. Prices seem high, but similar to San Francisco. However since tipping is not expected and the exchange rate is about .8, and we get GST tax exemption on many items, the prices are really quite reasonable. The land prices have really skyrocketed here though and beachfront property prices rival those in the Bay. The climate is about 75 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit daily and the water temperature is about 70 degrees - perfect for snorkeling and swimming.
February 21 - 24 - STORMY, RAIN, WINDS - up to 50 knots. We are snuggled up into Waitiatia Bay on Waiheke Island watching the ferries from Auckland (about 45 minutes by ferry) battle the waves. Exciting, but glad we are safely anchored in the Bay. This is the rain they have been waiting for all summer. Most people on the Island depend on rain, which they collect from their metal roofs into large tanks. They do have electricity, phones to the mainland, and internet cafes at Oneroa. (plus nice restaurants and wine from the 14 wineries here on the Island). We will stay here for a few days to wait out the storm, reading, sleeping, playing cards and other stuff, then go onto Coromandel once the winds calm down and shift to the southwest. Or, as they say here, “Once the weather is fine”.
Over the last 2 ½ months we have been enjoying the countryside and cruising habitats of the North Island. We originally thought that once we reached Auckland, we would take off for the South Island to visit the cruising holes there, but there is so much to see in the North Island that we have scraped our plans to visit the South Island (at least this year). Once we left the Bay of Islands, we stopped at Tutukaka on our way to the Great Barrier Island. Each place we have visited has its own unique charm and interest. Tutukaka boasts that it is only 30 minutes from the best marlin fishing in the world, Great Barrier Island has dozens of bays, coves and hiking trails that one could spend months exploring. Waiheke Island is less than an hours ferry trip from Auckland, yet is a rural, quiet community similar to Bodega Bay where many of the 8000 residents commute to “the city”. The Coromandel Peninsula hosts a few small towns, but is largely just a beautiful, uninhabited place where sheep and cattle graze. Most of the New Zealanders own boats - no surprise where thousands of beautiful anchoring spots can be visited within hours of Auckland. We have just touched the scenic beauty of this marvelous land and have genuinely been given the “red carpet” by the locals. We are very comfortable with our Seawind 1160 even in 3 to 4 meter seas. Most of the warrantee items have been resolved by Royce Black, Seawind factory representative, who came to Auckland to resolve the issues and help show Seawinds in the Auckland boat show. We have found provisioning fairly easy. Of course linking up with a great Kiwi couple, Alec and Ann Waring, who also purchased a Seawind 1160, has been extremely delightful and helpful.
We continually talk to people about our next ocean crossing to Tahiti, and most of them say, “Why not join us and dozens of other cruisers who venture to Fiji from here each year?” Maybe we are a little nuts, but it seems that taking the tough part first (3 weeks to Tahiti from here), and then relaxing while going downwind through the Tuamotus, French Polynesians, and maybe all the way to Samoa, is a reasonable thing to do. We will have to find a front traveling through New Zealand, follow the back end of it (southwesterlies) until we hit 150 degrees West , then head north to catch the trade winds to Tahiti. At least, that is the plan, but we are cruisers, and cruisers need to be flexible.
Tom Hanson and Merrie Bailey will be joining us next week after their tour of Australia and the South Island. Tom, along with Ted Stuart, will be crewing with us as we head East at the end of April. In the interim, we are checking with the locals to find out how they catch all those huge red snappers.

The Happy Wanderers of New Zealand!

Hi Everyone from New Zealand,

Well it seems like we are just wandering around New Zealand with no particular agenda. We are losing concept of time and don't know what day it is. We stay at a place until we get tired of it, then move on. We worked our way down the New Zealand coast from Bay of Islands to the Great Barrier Island before going to Auckland. Auckland is a medium sized city as far as population, but coveres a huge area. We have met locals who have opened their homes and lives to us. Very friendly all around. Or as they would say, "spot on". The boat is still behaving wonderfully. We had some minor factory warrantee items fixed last week and we are currently anchored at Waiheke Island, which is about 15 miles from Auckland, yet seems a million miles because of its quaint and lovely remoteness. The ferry does come here to transport some of the 8 thousand residents to work in Auckland, Our very vague plans are to hang around here, or go to Coromandel, Mercury Islands or down to the Bay of Plenty before coming back to Auckland to meet Tom and Merrie Hanson the first week of March, where they will stop off a few hours on their way to Australia before coming back to Auckland to join us.

We usually can find an email cafe in the small communities ashore, but when anchored out in remote coves, we use sailmail, so send us a note to let us know how you folks are doing and we will try to reply, even if it is a very short "sailmail".

Cheers,

Dan and Carol aboard Caprice

South towards Auckland!

Dear Friends,
Well, we are back on Sailmail. We left the Bay of Islands on Jan. 31, traveled down to Tutukaka, a lovely little fishing village, where we met two lovely cruising couples. One gave us a chip which included all the nice anchorages near Auckland. They recommended we go to the Mokohinea Islands on our way south, then to Great Barrier Island, Mercury Island then finally to Auckland. So, here we are at Great Barrier Island after stopping off at Mokohinea last night. The islands are bushy, bare, and have few inhabitants. We are anchored in a quiet bay with only one other boat. Everyone here fishes constantly. We haven't caught a nice fish for days, but are still lavishing on the mussels we got at Bay of Islands. There are lots of mussels and scallops in this area - Port Abercrombie. We will spend a couple days here at Great Barrier Island before going to Mercury (20 miles). We are now committed to going to Auckland on February 14 - 16 to finalize the warrantee issues with a Seawind factory rep. In the interim, I will need to find a way to get a copy of the Notice of Departure to Tom and Ted. I think that there is a place on the Island called Port Fitzroy that has fax capabilities, so will try that tomorrow.
Life is really slowing down for us. Our "to do" list is down to one or two items that we try to get done, If not, there is always tomorrow. I need to dive tomorrow, so I can find out why the log propeller is not turning, so that is the big thing for tomorrow. Maybe we can go ashore and walk along the beach, or maybe not. Carol keeps on thinking that she can beat me in "up and down", a card game similar to gin, but I keep on beating her butt, but I am sure she will get even.
Cheers,
Dan and Carol

Island Time!

Hi Everyone,
I forget what I sent last. I guess we are starting to get into the "island time". We hardly know what day, or week, or month it is. Although every day seems to be filled with lots of chores and things to do. Like going to the local farmers market to get veggies and bread. Life seems to be filled with the basics of food and supplies and getting things done on the boat. Even with a new boat there are lots of little things that need upgrading, particularly after we have gone through the Tasman with 40 knot winds and 3 - 4 meter seas. Anything that could have shaken loose, or broken, or worn, did. But overall, we are still very pleased with the boat's performance. As I think we mentioned before, the most scary part was not the winds and waves, but the lightning storms. We fortunately skirted most of them, but one particular one had Carol sleeping with the EPIRB.
The life here in northern New Zealand is like the US in the 60's. The music on the radio. The cars, the way teenagers act. The more relaxed life and the way that everyone seems to be helpful. Every morning, the local net is filled with information and people who are willing to help each other. For example, this morning someone wanted ride to a nearby town, and someone else responded, "Sure we can give you a ride" The country side is rolling hills, very green with lots of cattle and sheep. The Kiwis love their Cricket teams and though we don't understand it, the games last for days. We will be leaving this lovely area of the Bay of Islands to visit the area between here and Auckland over the next few weeks. Our next port will probablly be Whangarea, pronounced Fongeray. Cheers mates,
Dan and Carol aboard Caprice.